From today's NYT Sunday Magazine:
This perverse state of affairs is not, as you might think, the
inevitable result of the free market. Compared with a bunch of carrots,
a package of Twinkies, to take one iconic processed foodlike substance
as an example, is a highly complicated, high-tech piece of manufacture,
involving no fewer than 39 ingredients, many themselves elaborately
manufactured, as well as the packaging and a hefty marketing budget. So
how can the supermarket possibly sell a pair of these synthetic
cream-filled pseudocakes for less than a bunch of roots?
For the
answer, you need look no farther than the farm bill. This resolutely
unglamorous and head-hurtingly complicated piece of legislation, which
comes around roughly every five years and is about to do so again, sets
the rules for the American food system — indeed, to a considerable
extent, for the world’s food system.
Michael Pollan (author of the widely praised The Omnivore's Dilemma) starts out promisingly enough in making the connection between the Farm Bill and the bulging waste line of so many Americans. It's a surprisingly solid, free market argument in the Times. So you'd think that his conclusion would be to, you know, scrap the damn bill:
The devil is in the details, no doubt. Simply eliminating support
for farmers won’t solve these problems; overproduction has afflicted
agriculture since long before modern subsidies. It will take some
imaginative policy making to figure out how to encourage farmers to
focus on taking care of the land rather than all-out production, on
growing real food for eaters rather than industrial raw materials for
food processors and on rebuilding local food economies, which the
current farm bill hobbles. But the guiding principle behind an eater’s
farm bill could not be more straightforward: it’s one that changes the
rules of the game so as to promote the quality of our food (and
farming) over and above its quantity.
Such changes are radical
only by the standards of past farm bills, which have faithfully
reflected the priorities of the agribusiness interests that wrote them.
One of these years, the eaters of America are going to demand a place
at the table, and we will have the political debate over food policy we
need and deserve. This could prove to be that year: the year when the
farm bill became a food bill, and the eaters at last had their say.
Ah nevermind. The solution to bad legislation is just more legislation. He didn't actually say it, but I think I faintly heard the phrase "eater's bill of rights" somewhere in there.